By Beth Roberson
Headhunter’s Asparagus
Sauropus androgynus, some times known as Headhunter’s Asparagus is in the spurge family of Euphorbiaceae, has a native range from India to Malaysia now is popular in Belize, C.A. Headhunter’s Asparagus is very popular in Asia, where it is known variously as: katuk, mani cai, cekur manis, pucuk manis, sayur manis, star gooseberry, rau ngot, Sabah vegetable or sweet leaf, in this hemisphere the popular name is ‘tropical asparagus’, although it is not at all related to asparagus. (The stems are often eaten and have the texture of asparagus.) After researching the tasty perennial shrub, we have dubbed it ‘Headhunter’s Asparagus’ – from its infamous culinary history of its leaves being the garnish, historically in Borneo, for ‘long pork’ (human flesh).
Recently having attracted the attention of North American culinary crowd seeking out ‘new’ exotics, a local seed merchant introduced me to this delight, Headhunter’s Asparagus. The leaves, young and old (younger of course more tender for raw consumption in salads, etc) and stems provide an estimated 6-10% protein, as well as many vitamins and minerals, a higher level being in the more mature leaves. Provitamin A, B, C and K are to be found – in fact, this is one of the few plant sources for vitamin K.
Sauropus androgynous received some bad press a few years ago in Taiwan, when it was the ‘fad diet’ for weight loss. If consumed excessively it can cause lung problems (purportedly from alkaloids – which may break down with cooking). The seeds and stunningly beautiful flowers are also edible, although I cannot claim to have eaten those. My favorite part for nibbling is the small stem. Many cultures favor the leaves of Headhunter’s Asparagus in salads (mixed with other greenery). Other popular uses are with eggs – it excels as addition to quiche, using both leave and chopped stems. Chefs appreciate that it does not lose its dark green color after cooking, and we have used it in place of broccoli in recipes.
An Asian traditional culinary partnership Headhunter’s Asparagus is eggs with anchovies. The flavor is closest to snow peas – very sweet tasting and pleasant smelling. Some websites describe it as also close to ‘peanut taste’, but for the cultivar we have sampled, we have not encountered this allegedly peanutty aspect. Used worldwide in soups (with crab, minced pork or dried shrimp), or as you like, this is a versatile veggie with giant possibilities.
Headhunter’s Asparagus is also utilized frequently as medicine in Asia. In both Vietnam and Indonesia, its touted glories include increasing milk supply for nursing mothers. (Boil the leaves, drink the water.) Also it is reputedly antipyretic (lowers fever) and a remedy for mumps. The low maintenance perennial bush, reaching 6-7 ft high (if you are not eating it down), thrives under varied conditions – semi-shade to full sun, tolerating soils from acid to clay and is easy to cultivate from seeds or perhaps easier from cuttings. It can be planted under or around trees where it may adapt growth to a vine-like fashion.
Try it as a hedge – just plant sufficient and plant this one close to the kitchen or where you often stroll (for a handy snack). My internet search shows that it is highly disease and pest resistant – although some insect finds it tasty at my Cayo home. Spraying occasionally with hot pepper spray has been effective to detract them. It Is said to tolerate heavy harvesting and will regenerate easily. Many cooks strip the leaves, then plant the stem; I find the crunchiness of the stems much too tempting to allow much planting like that.
Headhunter’s Asparagus is an easily cultivated and an unusal edible.
Reprinted from Nov-Dec 2011/Jan 2012 www.belizeagreport.com
